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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 4:26 pm 
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Pandora wrote:

Interesting idea. How long should you leave between these nibbles? :?



Al


al

in your case about six months..............

:lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 6:43 pm 
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Cheers Rich :) It's thanks to you providing the panel cheaply that I could get it done so quickly.

---

After what was achieved today I've decided to have a weekend off from the Austin. I've been working flat out to get through as much of the front end as I could in the shortest time and now that's all done I have the luxury of time on my side. The remaining welding can be done at a more sedate pace since none of it will need me to disturb the bits that make the car run, with the exception of disconnecting the battery when welding, of course. The various earth points and wiring stuff was tidied up in the engine bay so, apart from potentially cleaning any less-than-perfect earth points, we're done under here.
Image20170804-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

More importantly, the wing is fitted. It's a scruffy used panel so it's less than perfect but it's far better than what was there before and was free, so it makes sense to use it. I'm very happy with that, all told. The headlight was reinstalled along with the sidelight unit with clear lens and the grille was refitted. I need to get a couple of bulbs for the sidelight-indicator unit so it matches the other side and we can check all the lights work.
Image20170804-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170804-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170804-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

There's very little to go through now, the boot is mostly empty. Acquired a scrap of funky old carpet that might get repurposed in the car as heel mats or something.
Image20170804-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I feel pretty happy about the progress over the last couple of weeks. It's a relatively solid little car now in need of just a bit of sill and floor attention. Big thanks to Mike for helping out so much by doing those little jobs and some not-so-little jobs that might have otherwise slowed down the progress. It definitely helped get over the scary hump of work the front end needed.

I applied paint where required. Since most of it has paint on, I just did the bits where I needed to take paint off to weld :P


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:56 pm 
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I was going to do some welding today until I got to the unit and I'm just not in the right headspace for it. Maybe tomorrow. Instead, Mike and I tried to get to the bottom of why the clutch isn't working as it should. On isolating components we have found the arm is operating as it should as is the new slave cylinder. We're not getting air coming into the system, once bled it stays bled. The master cylinder appears to be working well too. Checked the adjustment screw on the bellhousing and that too is doing what it should. The problem is that when everything is together we're not getting much travel with the arm at all. You can engage 1st with the engine off but not with the engine running, and we know the clutch isn't stuck on because you can start the car in both first and neutral with the expected results.

The plan is to buy a rebuild kit for the master cylinder even though the seals seemed okay, a new clutch hose because we wondered if that's collapsed internally given the exterior condition of it and generally just make sure everything is as clean and free moving as it can be where it needs to be. Then we'll try again. It's a little frustrating because it's the only thing preventing me from getting a drive of the car and that all important first-drive video. The brake and clutch fluid reservoir lids don't seem in the first flush of youth either so I'm considering replacing these just so they're another item off the list of things-that-might-cause-an-issue-we're-not-sure. I don't think it's the aforementioned clutch arm/fork wear, it's not that the clutch won't disengage, it won't engage. Also pictured here is the clutch hose I need to replace, the outside casing has started to perish, as they do with age.
Image20170807-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170807-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

What we did manage to do was bleed the brakes and those seem to work perfectly fine. The handbrake needs some adjustment, it works but it is weak. I'll be taking the drums apart to inspect the internals though I'm honestly not expecting to find anything amiss.

I did want to get the car on the lift but we have a bit of an odd problem; the car is the wrong size. There are places you can put the lift pads but none of them are in reach of both arms and with the sills being incomplete and still in need of repair in places, they're not strong enough at present to lift the car with them... we tried and put the car down as soon as tyres left the floor because of the noises one tender corner was making. So the work today was done on axle stands instead and that meant I got my first look at the underside of the car from the outside. It's much better than I expected.

The boot floor to rear valance seam looks pretty dreadful inside while outside it's in pretty reasonable shape so that's quite reassuring. I guess it's more water in the boot rotting down that's caused the issues than road spray washing up.
Image20170807-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The rear boot corner I was going to do today, and which is marked ready for cutting, is very easy to access with the rear wheel off. This should be an easy repair. The inner arch needs some attention too and is slightly more complicated, but nothing compared to the work at the front.
Image20170807-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

This is the end of the driver's side sill-to-floor join I haven't finished. You can also see the holing in the front floor pan. There's not actually as much to replace here as I was expecting so I might not have as large a job as I feared. I'm not a fan of welding floors. I'm not sure but the remains of sill closing panel looks more like the remains of a cover sill than a proper closing panel, it seems too big/wide to be the factory style panel.
Image20170807-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The middle section of that sill. You can see towards the front where there's daylight coming through one of the areas I need to do a small patch on the inner sill as mentioned on my To Do list. I need to put some tabs back in to hold the wiring loom up too, they fell off when I knocked the rust out of here.
Image20170807-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The passenger side is remarkably tidy. There is no closing sill panel at all but what metal is there is actually really good.
Image20170807-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The middle section with the clearly visible repair sections that are overlap-welded from inside. I'm going to clean this up and may apply some welding from this side if it looks like it needs it, even though it looks quite solid inside the car. You can see the work I need to do on the outer sill this side, it's a bit of a hotchpotch.
Image20170807-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The repair towards the back too. Again, nicely cut back to clean metal and overlap welded from inside and in need of a jolly good clean up and proper protection applying. It's not pretty as repairs go but it is quite solid and will be a lot of work to improve for no real gain unless I want to baffle the MoT tester by showing him a seemingly un-welded ADO16 bottom.
Image20170807-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

That's all the welding that's really needed at least, which is why I'm not so worried about it. If anything, there's less to do than expected so I do have plenty of time to put it all right while I wait for the new sill closing panels to be made and delivered. I ordered a pair from Earlpart because they come highly recommended by pretty much everyone that I can see reports of panel replacement listed. Also the most expensive part of the car being nearly £200 delivered, but should save me bags of fabrication time by being an easy fit solution, so totally worth it.

Finally, I removed that chrome mirror (anybody want it?) and replaced it with a matching Reguvis. I've got the old mirror hole to blank off in the wing which I'll either do with a spot of welding or a rubber grommet. Then I went home because all I can do is welding and I didn't want to weld today.
Image20170807-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170807-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:48 pm 
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Your brake master is actually a clutch one so best to change it as they hold a little bit of preassure and you will have glowing red discs!

There are some clear photos of what a nice floor and undersill should look like on my thread page.

Those under sills that earls sell are well worth the time and money. They fit perfectly and would be a difficult panel to make at home as the side with the 90 bend is a curve so pretty hard to make unless you had either a perfect floor or a panel to copy

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:07 pm 
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rich@minispares.com wrote:
Your brake master is actually a clutch one so best to change it as they hold a little bit of preassure and you will have glowing red discs.


I'll probably regret this, but......

You sure Rich? Did they do clutch masters with the taller can?
I thought it looked like a brake master, just mounted 180 degrees out to 'normal'


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:43 pm 
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Oh yes, i've seen your lovely unmolested looking floors. I doubt any of this car will ever look as good as your floors.

I hadn't even thought the brake one was wrong until I looked at some other photographs of ADO16 engine bays and the more I look, the more wrong the reservoir looks. The filler cap for it should be on the other side and it shouldn't be hugging the clutch reservoir quite so closely. This is a good clear image to illustrate what I mean. Look where the filler caps and pipe exits are. I know it's not the exact same as my engine bay but the reservoir layout is the same as has been shown in less-clear 1100 engine bay photographs.
Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:46 pm 
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Actually... looking again is it just that my brake reservoir is turned around? The pipe outlet is different heights on each unit so I don't know that it is a clutch reservoir after all.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:48 pm 
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Sorry. It's my pisspoor eyes.

The brake is on back to front and the clutch one is a brake also. That's why the brake one is wrong. You have to that to force them to fit

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 11:33 pm 
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Could that be the real issue with the clutch operation then? I can't imagine having the wrong type of master cylinder is going to help matters.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:08 am 
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rich@minispares.com wrote:
Sorry. It's my pisspoor eyes.

The brake is on back to front and the clutch one is a brake also. That's why the brake one is wrong. You have to that to force them to fit



Nah, still not buying it - the clutch one looks right to me.


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