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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:43 am 
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GraemeC wrote:
rich@minispares.com wrote:
Sorry. It's my pisspoor eyes.

The brake is on back to front and the clutch one is a brake also. That's why the brake one is wrong. You have to that to force them to fit



Nah, still not buying it - the clutch one looks right to me.


hmmm

bigger photos and I can see more!

I'm going to have to try the masters in mine as I'm 99.9 sure (graham can have 0.01%) that you cannot fit one master back to front and retain the correct one the right way round I the other hole. you can get different size feet which may allow it

let me check

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:27 pm 
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Location: High Wycombe, UK
The clutch looks correct, it's the brake that is wrong...should be like this

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Masters rs.jpg


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David - chairman@ado16.info

1968 MG 1300 Saloon Connaught Green
1972 Triumph 2.5 PI Estate Royal Blue
1978 Carlight Casetta Caravan
http://carlightrestoration.blogspot.co.uk
1995 Lada Riva 1.5 Estate Cherry


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:36 pm 
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Location: High Wycombe, UK
As for the clutch operation, imho the master and slave either work or they don't.

I had a similar situation after rebulding my engine, even stripped the clutch to have another look and couldn't see anything amiss.

Put in brand new operating arm with new upper pushrod and pushrod pin, new throw out plunger and lever pin and the problem was solved. Nothing looked especally worn but collectively there was just too much wear for the clutch to operate.

_________________
David - chairman@ado16.info

1968 MG 1300 Saloon Connaught Green
1972 Triumph 2.5 PI Estate Royal Blue
1978 Carlight Casetta Caravan
http://carlightrestoration.blogspot.co.uk
1995 Lada Riva 1.5 Estate Cherry


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 4:22 pm 
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Posts: 131
Didn't get any further on the clutch side of things, my other jobs took rather longer than anticipated. What I do know now is the brake master cylinder reservoir (and probably the master cylinder too, it's the one on the left) is on the wrong way around, the fill cap should be to the left at the bulkhead side. This is also confirmed by all the comments above, isn't it great the internet has all this info floating about for easy reference?
Image20170808-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I can also tell you there looks to be some wear to the hole the clutch return spring goes through. At least I think it's wear, it doesn't look even enough to have been machined that way.
Image20170808-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

On fiddling with some things I am now more inclined to think the seals on the clutch master cylinder have failed which is what's causing the problem. The clutch hose isn't doing anything visibly strange and while I haven't taken the big arm off, I doubt there's enough damage there to cause issues either. Because I wanted to get on with other stuff on the car, I didn't try the bodge of extending the slave cylinder actuator rod thing to see if the minimal travel I'm getting could be exaggerated enough to get clutch operation. Instead, attention today was turned towards the desire to weld up the boot floor.

The underseal in the rear arch is really variable in thickness and has lifted in quite a few places so it all needs to come off. Unlike the front arch this side, this is proven incredibly difficult because of both access and the stubborness of some of the underseal. My plan is to get it all back to nice clean metal, rust treat where needed, weld where needed, repaint and re-underseal it all. I did want to clean the whole arch before starting the repairs but it was taking that long I was worried I wouldn't get any rust cut out, let alone new steel welded in today, so I only did some of the arch.
Image20170808-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I gave the arch lip a buzz with the flap wheel and found that while it's a little frilly, there's still a lot of metal to work with. It shouldn't need a replacement arch, just the return lip. Someone has already replaced some of the return lip before me and I see no reason not to carry on in the same way. The inner arch isn't too bad either, except for the trailing edge. It's a fiddly repair and perhaps non-vital but I might as well do it while I'm doing the rest.
Image20170808-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

In the boot I cut out the rot. It wasn't actually as bad as expected. I've got to carefully clean back some of the subframe mounting bracket as it's gone around a couple of the spotwelds. I should, in theory, be able to remove the rusty metal, clean the bracket surface and weld in a new boot floor piece to the bracket afterwards without dropping the subframe. You can also see the bit of boot-valance seam I've removed here.
Image20170808-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It's a lot of small pieces layered to repair this bit. Time consuming, but not too tricky. Happily I also found the guard for the grinder so that's back on. It did get in the way a bit when trying to clean some of the inner arch, but other than that I'm persevering with it after the thumb incident. Tomorrow I plan to weld up the boot floor and then weld up the inner arch, it looks like it will layer easier that way. I'll also have to do a small bit of repair work to the bottom trailing edge of the wing both inner and outer but I might not get that far since that's all curved shapes which take me a while to make.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:35 pm 
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No clutch investigation today, yet again the repair work I was doing ended up being rather more involved than expected. There was a really nice looking repair in the boot that I had hoped to leave alone, it looked prettier than the other repairs (bar the coat of underseal) but was hiding grot as I found when I started to cut out the grot I did know about.
Image20170809-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I had to take the guard off the grinder temporarily. I didn't want to accidentally cut through anything behind the piece I was removing so need to get in quite snug to make a clean cut, that meant swapping to a smaller used disc for access. As you can see, the guard won't then let me make this cut. I put the guard back on once I'd done it.
Image20170809-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Cleaned, the hidden bits rust treated, and the floor spot welded to the bracket where the old spot welds had rotted out and I was ready to clean back the welds for the next stage. Only I'd run out of time and managed to misplace the eye protection so that's where I called it quits today.
Image20170809-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I've got the inner arch panel to make and install which I'll do from outside the car then I'll seam weld the floor panel to the inner wing so they're no longer independant of one another. I'm going to get some big grommets for the holes that the wiring loom goes through too, seems odd that there aren't any there in such an exposed location and is probably a big contributor to the boot floor corners rotting out like they have.
Image20170809-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:13 am 
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confession time

I have learnt something new

the hole centres on the pedal box in a 1100 are ever so slightly wider than those in a mini....

that's why you can fit one master cylinder the wrong way round

panic over!

:lol:

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should you wish, you can contact me on rich@minispares.com

'long beard boss'


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 1:04 pm 
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Every day's a school day!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:20 pm 
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Today has just been frustrating. I spent the first hour just trying to find the eye protection that had disappeared and it is nowhere. I even emptied the bin just in case they'd fallen in that somehow. I ended up using a full face mask thing that's so scratched you can barely see through it because there was no other option available at the unit and I didn't want to waste time driving to a shop to buy a new pair of safety specs.

I did at least get the patches cut out for the boot repairs. The seam repair piece I even got fettled and held in place with magnets ready to weld in.
Image20170811-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I got the larger panel cut out and ready to be fettled when the fusebox tripped, as it does sometimes, taking out the circuit for the bench grinder. The electrics in the unit are okay apart from that circuit which every now and then trips up. I could have put the panel in the vice and fannied about with the angle grinder but I really don't enjoy doing it that way, especially if the grinder snags on the metal as you're trying to fine-trim it.
Image20170811-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

That's fine though, flicking a switch in the fuse box is not an issue. If you can get to the fuse box. I did not have enough time spare to shift all the crap that has been stacked in the way so pretty much had to call it quits as I was, by now, thoroughly not in the mood.
Image20170811-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I had taken a spare Princess steel with me to double-extra check the PCD on the Austin which is the same of 4x114.3. I was also curious about seeing a 14" wheel on the car and what sort of clearance issues there are. The answer to that is lots. I'd have to fit a tyre that had half the sidewall at least because it fouls the part of the car's structure. You definitely wouldn't want to go bigger than a 14" if you were retaining the stock arches either, they're a nice radius match but you don't get a lot of wiggle room.
Image20170811-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170811-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Found a couple of purple dice valve caps which replace the mismatched ones that were on the suspension schrader valves, so there's that.
Image20170811-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:47 pm 
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The dice are very in-keeping :lol: :lol: :lol:

_________________
David - chairman@ado16.info

1968 MG 1300 Saloon Connaught Green
1972 Triumph 2.5 PI Estate Royal Blue
1978 Carlight Casetta Caravan
http://carlightrestoration.blogspot.co.uk
1995 Lada Riva 1.5 Estate Cherry


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 131
:D

I got a lucky on eBay when I found a selection of headlight buckets, trims and sealed beam lights for £NOTALOT and was the only bidder. I've ended up with a pair of plastic headlight buckets, a spare metal one, several good retaining rings, a couple of spare trim rings, some spare used rubber gaskets and a good sealed beam headlight for less than a pair of brand new plastic buckets. Quite pleased with that. There's even some spare bits of wiring and connectors in there too, should I need any of them.
Image20170813-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

After getting the fusebox reset, I cracked on with the welding in the boot. This was fiddly and I had to take regular breaks, something near the welded areas was making a lot of smoke that just sort of sat in the boot right where my head needed to be so there was lots of time spent wafting it out of the way. Nothing was on fire, just a lot of heavy smoke from something, probably underseal. I can now call the boot welding completed. I decided not to tackle the inner and outer arch brown lace because that's not structural and can be done without needing to immobilise the car at pretty much any point.
Image20170813-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170813-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170813-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With that all seam sealed and painted I can leave it alone until I'm ready to clean and underseal the car after the sills and floors are done. It's nice to have this crossed off the list finally. I could have done the sill repair that was needed on the passenger side, it's an easy enough job, but I didn't really have that much time to get properly involved so I assessed what was left to do and decided to attack the bad floor pan. It got a bit out of hand.
Image20170813-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

YABBADABBADOO!
Image20170813-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I'm a bit puzzled about the subframe mount on the heelboard. After knocking off the loose rust flakes I was expecting to find a hole through to the subframe which would then require new metal letting in. However, it looks more likely that someone has patched it from the subframe side without removing the rust. I'm not really sure what to do about this at the moment, I'm considering just undoing the bolts and cleaning it all back to try and find where it's welded and assess from there. It'll be a lot easier to do with no floor in the car, loads of access even with the pedals still fitted.
Image20170813-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I do need to take more floor out than I have. The piece that runs under the seat mount/crossmember is rotten and has taken some of this piece with it. I need to remove the rotten floor, repair the crossmember and reinstate the floor in one piece if I can. I think the Mini floor pan I have is just big enough to do the whole floor repair in one go, but it's very close on whether or not it's long enough. Again, this area is going to be a lot easier to repair now the floor is removed, there's much more access to get things into the shape I need them to be.
Image20170813-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170813-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

In closing...
Image20170813-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20170813-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


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