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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:00 am 
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Posts: 18
Funnily enough, I would have liked to restored a Mini as my first project. Plenty of cheap panels, loads of info and small enough to fit on my drive to work around. Unfortunately they're all pretty expensive now! Even really crusty ones.

This 1100 has plenty of charm though. Like a long stay mongrel dog at the rehoming centre, it's been through quite a few owners who have put their mark on it. Can't but help feel that this little car wants to carry on living.

I've heard plenty of people say that these ADO16s are great fun to drive and lovely things to own. Except trying to keep the rust at bay.

I usually reside on Autoshite, but I'll try and remember to keep this thread updated too. Especially as there seems to be a wealth of knowledge on here too.

I did try joining forum.ado16.info, but my account request has never been accepted.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:10 pm 
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Location: Aberdeen Scotland
SiC wrote:
Funnily enough, I would have liked to restored a Mini as my first project. Plenty of cheap panels, loads of info and small enough to fit on my drive to work around. Unfortunately they're all pretty expensive now! Even really crusty ones.

This 1100 has plenty of charm though. Like a long stay mongrel dog at the rehoming centre, it's been through quite a few owners who have put their mark on it. Can't but help feel that this little car wants to carry on living.

I've heard plenty of people say that these ADO16s are great fun to drive and lovely things to own. Except trying to keep the rust at bay.

I usually reside on Autoshite, but I'll try and remember to keep this thread updated too. Especially as there seems to be a wealth of knowledge on here too.

I did try joining forum.ado16.info, but my account request has never been accepted.

Like you I took on an ADO16 as my first attempt at body repairs. It was nowhere near as bad as yours though but still good learning experience. I only had to do sill repairs thankfully. Plenty on here that can advise as you get on with it.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=20096


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
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Funnily enough I was reading up your thread yesterday evening. Yours looks lovely! Also far more original than this one. Admittedly part of the charm of this is that it'll never will (should) be a show stopping garage queen. Plus as previous owners have left their mark on it, there is less guilt in doing the same.

I envy your work area too. Mine is far more modest! Its a narrow-ish driveway that I can only realistically work on one side of the car at a time. Also my garage is full of tools, so the work is mostly going to be done outside.

This doesn't seem too bad a job. Sills like yours and floor too. With a bit of rear arch to finish off. The bulkhead onwards should be solid from all the work Vulgs has done. I still intend to pull the engine out though. Apart from making it easier to move around on the drive, it gives me a chance to unseize the clutch out of the car and clean up the block a bit. Any other suggestions on things I should do to the engine if its out? Is it worth doing bottom end bearing shells and possibly replace the oil pump while its out?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
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My first questions...

  1. If I pull the engine, I guess it makes sense to go out the top and not drop the subframe? As I'll ideally need the wheels attached anyway and I don't really want to disturb the hydrolastic suspension too much unneccessarily.
  2. How many and where are the engine mounts? I tried having a good look at an 1100 engine bay at the last NEC Classic Car show, but I couldn't see where they all were (lighting isn't great at the show admittedly).
  3. The off-side hydrolastic pipe valve is jammed in (see earlier in this thread) and needs its valve replacing. Vulgalour has told me that its pretty well stuck in there and the pipe really needs to be removed and clamped in a vice to prevent damaging the pipes. As I'll be doing welding along where the pipe runs (drivers floor), I'm thinking its probably a good idea for me to remove the pipe anyway. Do both subframes need dropping to remove the pipe?

I'm sure I'll have many more questions in the future! :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:00 pm 
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SiC wrote:
My first questions...

  1. If I pull the engine, I guess it makes sense to go out the top and not drop the subframe? As I'll ideally need the wheels attached anyway and I don't really want to disturb the hydrolastic suspension too much unneccessarily.
  2. How many and where are the engine mounts? I tried having a good look at an 1100 engine bay at the last NEC Classic Car show, but I couldn't see where they all were (lighting isn't great at the show admittedly).
  3. The off-side hydrolastic pipe valve is jammed in (see earlier in this thread) and needs its valve replacing. Vulgalour has told me that its pretty well stuck in there and the pipe really needs to be removed and clamped in a vice to prevent damaging the pipes. As I'll be doing welding along where the pipe runs (drivers floor), I'm thinking its probably a good idea for me to remove the pipe anyway. Do both subframes need dropping to remove the pipe?

I'm sure I'll have many more questions in the future! :D


answers


engine out the top, its a half hour job really

1 x engine mount under clutch, 2 x engine mounts at rad side, back one undo the one nut and leave mount attached to engine, at front undo the engine mount bracket thats on the subframe and eave it attached to the mount - if you try and just pull the engine out with this bracket on the frame you just damage the threads on the mounts

both frames need dropping out to get the pipes out, but its dead easy on a ado16, miles easier than a mini, you will probably need to drop the rear frame to check the condition of the front rubber mounts as they fail in sheer

nothing is difficult on them, the frames are dead easy to take in and out, much easier than on a mini

if you see the links to my two cars there are loads of photos, particually of the orange one as its been to a bare shell

_________________
should you wish, you can contact me on rich@minispares.com

'long beard boss'


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
Well its arrived!
Attachment:
04d240a46ca700e621101e6daa557c31[1].jpg

Attachment:
d55f9e44de9a8e2d5256d7a4e351f0c9[1].jpg


Now I have it in person, its dawn to me on how much work I need to do on it. Those pictures don't quite show quite the work needing to do. A challenge it certainly will be.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
A few daylight pictures.

Image

Image

Image

Image

I can see what Vulgalour meant about the offset. This is me sitting straight! Almost feels like it was built wrongly.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
Had a good poke around last night and I've made a list!

Welding - Drivers footwell
Welding - Drivers footwell subframe mounting
Welding - offside cross member bottom panel
Welding - offside rear floor
Welding - drivers inner sill
Welding - drivers sill membrane
Welding - drivers outer sill
Welding - drivers closing panel
Welding - offside rear subframe mount
Welding - drivers a-pillar
Welding - passenger inner sill
Welding - passenger sill membrane
Welding - offside rear arch
Welding - offside rear arch liner join to arch
Welding - both side rear of arch to boot side floor
Welding - behind master cylinders
Welding - heater box mounting
Welding - seat stay reinforcement
Mech - remove engine
Mech - unsieze & replace clutch
Mech - replace oil pump
Mech - replace/inspect oil pressure relief valve
Mech - clean and paint engine
Mech - rebuild carb
Mech - replace front brake flexis
Mech - replace rear brake flexi
Mech - replace brake master
Mech - replace/clean up clutch master
Mech - inspect & clean up front brakes
Mech - inspect & clean up rear brakes
Mech - inspect and possibly replace front to rear brake pipe
Mech - inspect front suspension bushes
Mech - inspect rear suspension bushes
Mech - service! Oil, filter, sparking plugs, coolant, points, distributor cap+rotor
Mech - inspect distributor (e.g. vac advance)
Mech - replace hydrolastic Schrader valve
Mech - fix windscreen washer
Mech - flush radiator
Mech - refit heater box
Mech - fix/replace seat belts (passenger side missing)
Elec - inspect/rebuild wiring loom
Elec - fix indicators
Elec - fix lights
Elec - replace front lights
Elec - battery clamp
Elec - remove steering lock barrel
Elec - replace condenser with High Quality
Elec - fuse alternator, main and starter circuits (e.g. Mégane II battery fuses)
Elec - replace battery connection wires
Elec - check all systems
Body - replace boot seal
Body - inspect rubber seals
Body - tighten any loose fittings (e.g. door handles)
Body - refurbish seats
Body - replace carpet
Body - replace rear view mirror
Body - unify locks
Body - replace gear gaiter rubber
Body - paint!

Just a few things to do then...


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 236
I'll amend the thread title for you since you're carrying on where I left it off. I'll probably lurk for a while, maybe do updates on the Princess for the one person interested in that old wreck :P I really hope I didn't forget to tell you anything about the 1100, SiC, there was an awful lot to go through!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:52 pm
Posts: 18
rich@minispares.com wrote:
SiC wrote:
My first questions...

  1. If I pull the engine, I guess it makes sense to go out the top and not drop the subframe? As I'll ideally need the wheels attached anyway and I don't really want to disturb the hydrolastic suspension too much unneccessarily.
  2. How many and where are the engine mounts? I tried having a good look at an 1100 engine bay at the last NEC Classic Car show, but I couldn't see where they all were (lighting isn't great at the show admittedly).
  3. The off-side hydrolastic pipe valve is jammed in (see earlier in this thread) and needs its valve replacing. Vulgalour has told me that its pretty well stuck in there and the pipe really needs to be removed and clamped in a vice to prevent damaging the pipes. As I'll be doing welding along where the pipe runs (drivers floor), I'm thinking its probably a good idea for me to remove the pipe anyway. Do both subframes need dropping to remove the pipe?

I'm sure I'll have many more questions in the future! :D


answers


engine out the top, its a half hour job really

1 x engine mount under clutch, 2 x engine mounts at rad side, back one undo the one nut and leave mount attached to engine, at front undo the engine mount bracket thats on the subframe and eave it attached to the mount - if you try and just pull the engine out with this bracket on the frame you just damage the threads on the mounts

both frames need dropping out to get the pipes out, but its dead easy on a ado16, miles easier than a mini, you will probably need to drop the rear frame to check the condition of the front rubber mounts as they fail in sheer

nothing is difficult on them, the frames are dead easy to take in and out, much easier than on a mini

if you see the links to my two cars there are loads of photos, particually of the orange one as its been to a bare shell


Thanks for these tips. I should hopefully be ready soon to pull the engine. I can see the bits you mean and it makes sense the bits I need to undo.

In the meantime I've been pulling bits off ready.

I jacked up at the front of the subframe, as I couldn't get my jack elsewhere easily. Plus I think behind the engine is the gearbox selector and I didn't want to risk cracking the sump by lifting it there either.

Image
Image

One of the bottom of the subframe is missing a chunk compared to the other side. I guess maybe ripped off when someone jacked it up at the wrong point previously?

This car will never be a show beauty queen. Well it could, but it'd be a triggers broom. I quite like the fact I don't need to worry too much about getting things perfect - unlike the MGB where it'll mess it up if I don't.


Last edited by SiC on Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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