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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:19 pm 
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Vulgalour wrote:
A little bit of a dig and I was greeted with a facefull of fluid. .


revenge of the hydro piss!


it always lulls people into a false sense of security then gets them when they least expect it!

I hoped your lurched backwards screaming 'my eyes, my eyes'

:lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:42 pm 
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Location: High Wycombe, UK
Vulgalour wrote:
I discovered the problem today...
It's full of what looks like fibreglass resin. Why? Why would you do this?


Why indeed! And, I'm sure most of us have said exactly the same at some time or another over the years whilst trying to sort out someone else's bodge! :roll: :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 155
Safety goggles protected my beautiful eyes. :lol: I have learned what these are like. Still, being sprayed in the face with hydragas fluid is preferable to a coil spring violently uncompressing at you.

It's a new one on me, this bodge. I'm impressed they managed to do it with pressure in the system too, I wonder what they used to keep it in while it set?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2017 2:48 pm
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I've learnt you don't accidentally nick a pipe with the grinder when the system is full...holding an electrical item while being drenched isn't my idea of fun!!!!

I've had a few cars that have had that sinking feeling...but never felt the urge to fix a value with resin! These are same as car tyres so replacements are very very very cheap. I always fit new ones on any car is have.

I assure you this bodge wasn't us gov!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 155
Want this car? It's now available to purchase for £600 as it stands, no offers.

However, this price is subject to change. The more work I do on it - putting the floor in, repairing the sills, etc - the higher the price will go. In the meantime I'll carry on as normal with the restoration work but if someone comes along with the right sized pile of money, I'm happy to let it go.

I want to focus my attentions on the Princess and Rover and, with a big house move happening in the next year or so I ideally need the 1100 gone before that happens. That said, if it doesn't sell by the time I'm ready to move, for whatever reason, I'll just take it with me.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2017 2:48 pm
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Interested, whats left to complete?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 155
welding
- heater box mount area
- driver's side inner sill at the front where it meets the floor
- driver's side subframe mount area under the pedals
- driver's side front floor pan (Mini floor pan already bought which is big enough for the job)
- driver's side rear floor pan where it meets the box section.
- both intermediate sill panels
- both outer sill panels
- both closing sill panels (new ones already bought)

Mechanical
- clutch needs looking at. Suspected master cylinder issue, I'm not entirely sure on this. You can only select gear with the engine off.
- one schrader valve to replace because of a previous owner bodge

Electrical
- one side indicators not working (I forget which). Probably an earth or bulb issue.
- needs a battery, don't have one specifically for this car yet

Work Completed
- Driver's side front wing replaced
- Driver's side inner wing repaired, including arch-to floor area, bulkhead drain area and both subframe mounting points
- Passenger side front wing repaired
- Front valance repaired
- Driver's side sill-to-floor join replaced with fresh steel
- Boot floor corners repaired both sides
- Boot floor seam repaired
- Throttle cable replaced

It's worth noting the engine runs really nicely and the brakes work (not tested on a roller, but they do stop the car). The suspension is in good health and with the exception of the previously bodged schrader valve, appears to be free of any issues. Exhaust is old, but good. Clutch is probably okay, once I find out what exactly is stopping it working I'll know for definite, it could even be something as simple as something out of adjustment.

I'm not in a mega rush to sell but if the money is there and someone is willing to take it away without messing me about I shan't be averse to letting it go. I'm going to plod away at the jobs I've got the stuff to do when I have the time to do it before making any further big expenses like new outer sill panels, most of those jobs won't affect the asking price.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2017 2:48 pm
Posts: 47
Someones just given me a lead on a pair of outter sills, they are the wrong ones (ie cover sills) but they can be cut down and bent to fit. I suspect they might be very cheap. Ie cheaper than one proper sill. But ill let you know.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 1:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 155
That would be handy, it'd free up cash to get ready-made intermediate panels a bit sooner since I'd rather do that than faff about trimming flat sheet to shape.

I'm actually hoping to get in and do some work on it this week, I want to get to the bottom of this clutch issue so the car can be driven about. That way I could get it in and out of the unit easily and nibble away at these welding jobs, booking the space in the unit and the time off work for a couple of weeks to blitz the welding is proving difficult to line up at the moment, I can only really find a few hours every few days, which is less than ideal.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:26 pm
Posts: 155
Oooh, actual progress!

Had a an hour or so spare and Mike was at the unit and able to assist so we had a look at the brake and clutch master cylinder. After going through what people had suggested, the manual and my own gut feeling on the issue I was pretty sure the problem with the clutch was the clutch master cylinder rather than anything else. Since we were removing that I decided to turn the brake master cylinder around too.

What I then learned is the reason the brake master cylinder was in the wrong way around is that the reservoir couldn't clear the bulkhead properly as it needed a little dent adding. Some hammer time later and it was all sorted. I need to repair the cracked filler, but that's not a big deal.
Image20171114-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

While I was fiddling about with that, Mike was dismantling the clutch master cylinder.
Image20171114-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The seals aren't too bad but I have a rebuild kit so we'll replace them anyway. The problem is the spring inside has snapped in two places. This, I'm pretty sure, is the reason the clutch isn't working so now I need to try and find a replacement. Tips would be welcome on where to hunt one of those down since I don't really want to have to fork out for a whole new master cylinder just to replace one spring.
Image20171114-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Once the spring is replaced the car should be fully driveable, which is quite exciting.


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